When Purch gets excited about incoming swells it’s impossible to contain the elation and, truth be told, you wouldn’t dare throw water on the fire when it’s just starting to ignite. It was much the story a few weeks back when charts looked promising and Purch figured he could get away with some time outside the bay. The phone rang and on the other side was that excited Purch, plans flying through the phone line; locations, mates whose names I could never pronounce again, shacks he can crash in for the night on the cheap saving more money for beer, and a rough guess of how much it’d cost to keep the lights running in the bay while he ducks out for a few days.
In all that excitement and happy-go-lucky state, there’s no doubting when NPJ has a good feeling about incoming swells, it’s best to simply sit back, bring the cameras and enjoy the waves while they’re here. Case in point, a recent mid-week mission south with the man himself.
Photographs by Marc Llewellyn
Surfers NPJ and Josh Gunthorpe